East Nusa Penida by Scooter: Diamond Beach, Atuh & Tree House

The east side of Nusa Penida holds the views that made the island famous: the staircase carved into the cliff at Diamond Beach, Atuh Beach's bay with offshore rock stacks, and the Molenteng Tree House overlooking a cluster of rocky islets. The roads are quieter than the western route to Kelingking but still challenging: narrow, steep and partly potholed. This guide sets out a one-day scooter route from the harbour, distances and times, estimated costs, and the signs that you should hire a driver instead.

East or west: which one?

Most day-trippers to Nusa Penida choose the west route: Kelingking, Broken Beach and Angel's Billabong. That route is covered in scooter rental on Nusa Penida. The east route is the choice for a second day, or for anyone who wants equally good views with fewer crowds. Combining west and east in one day on a scooter isn't recommended: the distances are long, the roads are hard, and you'd be riding in a hurry on roads that don't forgive mistakes.

Getting there and renting a scooter

The fast boat from Sanur Harbour to Nusa Penida takes about 35–45 minutes and doesn't carry scooters. You rent another scooter on the island, usually delivered to the harbour or your accommodation. Boat schedules and tickets are on Sanur to Nusa Penida. Rental scooters from mainland Bali also can't be taken across without the owner's permission; the reasons are explained in taking a rental scooter to another island.

When you receive your scooter on Nusa Penida, check it more carefully than usual: brake pads, tyre pressure and tread, lights, horn and helmet. Bikes on this island work hard on the climbs every day. Take photos and a video of the bike's condition before you set off.

Route order and distances

Distances and times are estimates; average speeds on Nusa Penida are much lower than on mainland Bali. If you're staying in Toyapakeh in the north-west, add about 10 km and 20–30 minutes each way.

Goa Giri Putri

Goa Giri Putri is a temple inside a limestone cave in Karangsari village, on the east side of the island. The entrance is narrow, then the cave opens into a large chamber where ceremonies take place. Visitors must wear a sarong and sash and are usually asked for a donation. Because it's on the coastal road, the cave works well as a first stop before the climb to Pejukutan, or as a last stop on the way back.

Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach

Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach sit side by side in Pejukutan, with one shared car park on top of the cliff. Diamond Beach is famous for the staircase carved into the cliff face and the white sand below. Atuh Beach is a bay with rock stacks offshore and a few warung (small local eateries).

• Steep steps: going down to either beach takes about 10–20 minutes; coming back up can take 20–30 minutes in the blazing sun. There aren't handrails on every section.
• Waves: currents at both beaches can be strong. Only swim when the sea is calm and follow signs or lifeguards' advice.
• Best time: morning, around 08:00–10:00, before the heat and before the tour groups arrive.
• Costs: there's an entrance ticket and parking fee run by the village, usually a few tens of thousands of rupiah. The amount changes over time, so bring cash and ask for a ticket.

From the car park, pick just one beach to walk down to. Doing both staircases down and up in the midday heat is exhausting, and you still have to ride back down a long descent.

Molenteng Tree House and Thousand Islands

Molenteng Tree House is a wooden tree house on a cliff near Pejukutan, looking out over a cluster of rocky islets often called the Thousand Islands. The last stretch is a narrow, partly rocky village road followed by a short walk. There's a small ticket run by the locals. The view is best in the morning, when the sea is turquoise and the light isn't too harsh yet.

Road conditions and who shouldn't ride

The road to Pejukutan is the heart of this route's challenge. Some sections climb very steeply with sharp bends, cracked or potholed asphalt and sand on the surface. Tour cars and other scooters come the other way on a road only wide enough for one car.

• Steep climbs: keep the throttle steady from before the climb. If you're two-up and the bike runs out of power, ask your passenger to get off and walk for a bit.
• Descents: alternate front and rear brakes, keep your speed low, and don't switch the engine off. Details in tips for climbs & descents in Bali.
• Potholes and sand: look far ahead and avoid braking suddenly on sand.
• Fuel: fill up near the harbour. Inland there's only roadside fuel sold by the bottle.
• Signal: usually available on the main roads, but download an offline map as a backup.

If you get a flat tyre or break down on a quiet road, contact the bike's owner first, then note your location from the map so help can find you easily.

Estimated costs for the day

Foreign visitors must also pay the Bali Foreign Tourist Levy of Rp150,000 per arrival, separate from attraction tickets. The levy is paid once per visit to Bali, not per island.

The right scooter

Scooter choice on Nusa Penida is usually limited to 110–125 cc automatics. For the east route, pick a bike with strong disc brakes and tyres with plenty of tread. The Honda Vario 125 has more power on climbs than a 110 cc bike. The Honda Scoopy is enough for one person with light luggage. Avoid riding two-up on a 110 cc bike on the steep Pejukutan climbs.

Conclusion

East Nusa Penida gives you Diamond Beach, Atuh Beach and Molenteng Tree House in a calmer atmosphere than the west. The trade-off is tough roads that demand experience, a well-maintained bike and an early start. Be honest about your skills: a driver is the wise choice for beginners. For your days on mainland Bali, get a scooter via Bali scooter rental.